Thursday, July 21, 2005
I'm afraid you'll have to pardon the length of this entry, lots has happened in the last week and this entry is actually the work of a couple of mornings and evevenings. It's been much harder to get a net cafe (or cyber, pronounced 'sih-behr' as they are called here) than I had anticipated. Since the rates for phone calls are so high here during the day the cybers only open up at night. Night is of course the worst time for me, because I'm spending time with the family, eating, and it's freakin' dark out...
Well, the good news is I'm alive. And, actually there isn't any bad news! Things are going really well. Since I left Cotonou last week things have been a whirlwind of change. We left Cotonou around 10 in the morning (or 2am for those of you PST bound) and headed straight for Azove. I had thought they would have briefed us or something about what to expect when we reached there... But, in standard PC style we were un-aware until we needed to know. We got out of the car, and were pretty much thrown at our families. Actually I lie, they told us a bit about what our family sitution would be like when we were in Cotonou, so we all had a physical picture of our family, and knew what languages to expect, what religion and how many wives and what not. For me, moving in with a new family was certainly a scary prospect, and I think was one of the few
volunteers trainees who had any misgivings at all. I was sooo wrong. My family is freakinug awesome. According to PC policy I'm not allowed to divulge too much information about my whereabouts and what not, so I'd probably get in trouble for typing their humongously long last name. In any case they are sweet.
My family consists of my host Mama and Papa (as we've been told to call them), and 4 kids; a brother of 21, a sister of 16 (shush Tim), another brother of 12 and a sister of 8 (shush Tim). Life with them is fun, even though I only understand about 2% of what is said. The smaller kids are easy to interact with, they seemingly have infinite patience and have no trouble acting out what they are trying to say. There sentences are also simpler. Papa and Mama speak a little bit of english so between my horrible french, and their english we get along. My oldest brother speaks english pretty well, but he is trying to make sure I don't get used to it so he always starts in French.
Actually, as far as French goes things are working out in that department better than I had anticipated as well. I mean I'm not delivering disertations or anything, but everyday I learn things and have gone from not understanding or being able to communicate at all to having simple conversations. I mean it's stupid stuff like telling Mama what sort of foods or drinks I tried today, but it's something. It's fun learning like this, because you learn something in class and it's immediatley applicable to life.
Days currently are pretty busy. We have language class everyday, and on somedays we have only language class (for around 6 hours!). Most days though we have 1-2 hours of language, and then various other activities. Today for example we started learning about the different regions of Benin. Everyday we start at 8 am, and we don't get done until 6p or so. It's pretty civilized, especially considering we get a 3 hour lunch break. Yeah, you read that right. 3 hours for lunch. Even if we get out a little bit late I have enough time to take a well needed nap.
For getting around Peace Corps has provided us with awesome Trek mountain bikes. They are blue/silver and have a rack. They also gave us a sweet set of saddle-bags and a huge tool kit that will allow anything to be fixed on it. It's probably the nicest bike I've ever owned, and is certainly a step up from the bikes we inherited from Lab-Rat last year. It even has shocks!
Food has taken a step up from what we were given in Cotonou (which wasn't bad at all). Mama keeps things pretty varied, so I can't say everything I've had. There have been a few occasions of pasta with some sort of really spicy tomato sauce, and also the infamous pate (pronounced "paht") has made it's appearance a couple of times. Pate is THE Beninise dish, it's pretty much the staple food. It's made from corn with a few variations. Pate blanc is the standard, and is only corn. Pate rouge has tomato and spices mixed in (and is much tastier than pate rouge) and finally pate noir has mantioc (sweet potatoes, I think) mixed in. I've only had pate noir once, and it was gross. But I've been told it wasn't good pate noir, so I'll try it again.
Things in town are much like one would see in some of the poorer parts of Tijuana. Even the market is reminicent of Mexico. We're actually blessed here to be a major marchet (market) hub, so every 4 days is marchet day. It's pretty incredibly insane, people everywhere and tons and tons of food. 2 days ago we went and I bought a pineapple from a street vendor for the equivalent of 10 cents. She even cut it up for me. Yeah, that's right. 1 entire fresh cut pineapple for 10 cents. What's even more is that the pineapple here is the best pineapple I've ever eaten, hands down. I mean you can eat it all the way through, there is no "heeart" like there is in the states that is hard and impossible to cut or chew. It's soft and delicious through and through. I could talk about how good they are all day. Actually, I may have gotten myself in trouble with that... I went on so much about pineapple to my family that Papa came home today with a trunk full of pineapples. I'm talking like a full trunk, like it took the kids 4 trips to get them all in these huge basins. LOTS of pineapples. They told me I would eat pineapple until I was tired of it. Hehe, we'll see.
So, all in all things are going really well. There is still a lot to learn, and lots more to try. Hopefully I'll be able to get on a schedule where I can hit up the cyber more often, but no promises. I will however make an effort to blog a bit everyday. That way things will be broken up in to multiple entries. That way they won't come in one big update, and I won't have to think of a weeks worth of news all once to write! I plan on activating my cell phone within the next 3 weeks or so, just so you all know. I don't know what the number will be, but incoming calls are free for me, so you can all pay exorbitant fees to call me!! Woo!